This is an instruction page for most vehicles. Not specific to every vehicle. All vehicles very from make and model. Some of these instructions are not listed for Chevy full size pick ups. For most Chevy full size trucks please have a professional install. ALL of our off road fiberglass parts come standard in a white gel coat. They are not primed or painted. To prepare the parts for painting you will need to lightly hand sand them to knock down the shine of the gel coat. From there you can prime/paint them as if they were a standard sheet metal body panel. All parts should be painted after they are test fitted and installed.
**Please check out some helpful links and forums at the bottom of this page
Step 1: Remove Stock Fender
Before you can attach a fiberglass fender, you naturally have to remove the old fender first. Although there are some add-on fenders that can go right on top of the stock fender. But for this example, we will remove the old fender.
Open the hood of your car and locate the bolts along the hood line. Once you have located them, loosen and remove them using your socket wrenches. Once they have been removed, keep them in a safe place for reuse later on.
Step 2: Remove the Bumper
Since there will be a bolt also located within the bumper, you have to detach your bumper before you can reach this bolt. But if your wrench can fit, there’s no need to remove the bumper and go right ahead and remove the bolt. Otherwise, remove the bumper and subsequently remove the bolt that it was covering.
Step 3: Remove Corner Lamps
Also remove the corner lamps since there will be more bolts hidden behind them. Remove the lamps by carefully twisting the bulb socket and detaching it from the lamp. A screw will be holding the lamp in place so remove that also. Once the lamp has been removed, remove the bolt it was covering.
Step 4: Remove Mudguards
You also have to remove the mudguards since they will be in the way when removing the fenders later. Use your screwdriver and wrenches to remove this part.
Step 5: Remove the Stock Fender
Depending on your vehicle, you may need to open both doors where you will see more bolts holding the fender in place. These are the last bolts to remove so be careful as you remove these since the fender might fall off. Finally, detach the steel fender from the body after you remove the last remaining bolts.
Step 6: Aligning the Fiberglass Fender
Align the new fender to the spot where the original one sat. Make sure that the holes line up to each other. If there are extra holes on the fender, you may need to drill holes into your chassis. Mark the holes and drill into your chassis. Set up the new fiberglass fender again and align all the holes.
Step 7: Attach the Fiberglass Fender
With the fender properly aligned, put the original bolts back on to keep the fender from falling off. Tighten the bolts and make sure that they are secured and fastened correctly. Inspect the fenders and assure they are lined up correctly and that there are no gaps on the frame of the car or truck. Reinstall the corner lamps, mudguards and bumper after you have installed both fiberglass fenders
*Chevy Silverado’s and 80-96 F150’s are slightly different than all other installs. For these trucks you will need to split the outer fender from the inner fender. To do this you will need to drill out all of the spot welds around the perimeter of the fenders. Our fenders will then install on to the inner fender using your hardware.
To install your new fiberglass fenders, reverse the process! You will need to drill out the mounting holes. Be sure to use a drill bit that is larger than actual bolt size. This will allow you to make minor adjustments before you finalize and tighten down your fenders. This is the time to look at the body lines and door gap. You may need to push, pull or lean on the fenders to get them in to the optimal position, a friend is extremely helpful for this. If you run in to a place that doesn’t seem to be lining up, look at the back side of the fender to see why. When the fenders are pulled from the mold they are trimmed and occasionally they will need a bit more trimming
To start with the bedside installation consider the option of removing your bed. While this is not an absolute must, it can make the process a bit easier. You will then need to remove the tail lights, and bumper. The factory bed skins are held on via numerous spot welds around their perimeter. We highly recommend using a spot weld cutter to remove these spot welds, it will make your life a lot easier!
Once your factory bedsides have been removed you will be left with a bare inner bed structure. Start by hanging your new fiberglass bedside over the bed rail. This is the time to start the alignment process. You may need to trim a bit more off the inner bed, or the fiberglass as you work the bedside into its final location. Use the body lines on the cab, and the tail light as reference points. Once your happy with the alignment, begin bolting the bedside into place.
4 evenly spaced bolts along the inner bed rail are sufficient. Also plan on 2-3 bolts along the flange on the front portion of the bed, as well as a bolt or two in the the area that wraps around your tail light. The final step of the installation process is to secure the front and rear portion of the wheel well. These supports are in all trucks straight from the factory. There is not cut and dry way to do this step, but use what is on your truck already for inspiration. It can be as easy as cutting and splicing the existing supports, or you could go as far as fabricating your own custom mounts. This step is very important and if not done properly can lead to cracking and other issues.
Start by removing your hood and hood hinges, the new 1 piece will not utilize the factory hinges. Next step will be to remove your fenders (see fender section above for reference). After these items are removed start the install by mounting your mini fenders. The mini fenders typically allow you to use 2 factory mounting locations, 1 would be at the lower rear portion of where the fender was, and the other location is behind the door. You will need to access this bolt location from inside cab with the door halfway open. We also recommend some extra support where the mini fender latches to the cab. This area is more or less floating and can benefit from extra support from either a tube with a tab, or an L bracket. When mounting your mini fenders be sure to dill out your bolt holes slightly larger than the actual bolt to allow room for adjustment.
Now that your mini fenders are loosely mounted (allowing room for adjustment) it’s time to move on to the hood itself. Set the rear of the hood down on to the mini fenders and slowly lower the front of the hood down to the headlights. You’ll likely need a spacer at the front of the hood for proper mock up alignment, a couple pieces of wood works great. Once you’ve got the front of the hood aligned with the head lights, it’s time to install your latches. The latches have a latch, and a clasp portion. The latch goes on the mini fenders, and the clasp goes on the hood. Drill out the 6 mounting holes and rivet or bolt the latches to the fiberglass. Blue painters tape helps to keep everything in place
Now that the hood is sitting in roughly, its final position, we need to address the hood pins. Proper placement of the hood pins is crucial. Too far out and the center of the hood can catch the wind, too far in and the outside of the hood catches the wind! The ideal spacing for the hood pins is going to be roughly the width of your grille. This is not an exact science, use your best judgement. The actual way to mount the pins will vary by model. With some vehicles you’re able to mount the hood pins directly to the radiator core support, and with others you will need to build risers.
If you’ve got a vehicle that you’re doing a conversion 1 piece on you will need to fabricate a frame structure to mount the lights and grille off of. There are a lot of vehicles that have header panels, which greatly simplifies the mounting process. If there is not a header panel available, you will need to fabricate your own mounts.
*McNeil Racing Inc is not responsible for any delays, stoppage, extra fees for shipments once it has left our facility.
****McNeil Racing Inc. does not offer any FREE SHIPPING under any circumstances******
Transit times for LTL freight are longer than for full truckload freight (FTL). LTL transit times are not directly related only to the distance between shipper and consignee. Instead, LTL transit times are dependent upon the makeup of the network of terminals and break bulks that are operated by a given carrier and that carrier’s beyond agents and interline partners. For example, if a shipment is picked up and delivered by the same freight terminal, or if the freight must be sorted and routed only once while in transit, the freight will likely be delivered on the next business day after pickup. If the freight must be sorted and routed more than once, or if more than one linehaul is required for transportation to the delivering terminal, then the transit time will be longer. In some instances the LTL freight has up to 10 days of delivery time frame. Also, delivery to beyond points or remote areas will almost always add days to the transit time.
The main advantage to using an LTL carrier is that a shipment may be transported for a fraction of the cost of hiring an entire truck and trailer for an exclusive shipment. Also, a number of accessory services are available from LTL carriers, which are not typically offered by FTL carriers. These optional services include liftgate service at pickup or delivery, residential (also known as “non-commercial”) service at pickup or delivery, inside delivery, notification prior to delivery, freeze protection, and others.
This is usually a 3-5 day transit time from the time the shipment has left.
Some shipping quotes given are not necessarily accurate and may need to be recalculated manually. This most commonly occurs with orders shipped outside the 48 contiguous states.
In the event of any additional shipping charges or alterations to your shipping total, we will attempt to contact you and your order will be held, pending your approval of any changes.
Shipping to Canada
Shipping to Canada is a Little bit of a longer Process. We Try very hard to get the shipments across the border as easy as possible. McNeil Racing does not pay for the Customs and Taxes fees for crossing the border. The customer will have to take care of those fees. McNeil Racing only takes care of the paper work and actual shipment for the package.
McNeil Racing Inc packs all products carefully to prevent damage during shipping. However, damage may still occur occasionally in transit. Buyer must inspect the packaging and the products carefully upon receiving them, then accept or deny the shipment, and if need be, notate any damages and irregularities, such as crushed, torn, punctured, or broken parts on both the packaging and the product, on the freight bill or receipt at the driver’s presence. A signed receipt without any notation releases the carrier as well as McNeil Racing Inc., from any further damage claim. Discovery of damages after a clear delivery becomes responsibility of the customer.
All damages must be notified to carrier AND McNeil Racing Inc within 24 hours. In cases of damage with proper notion on receipt, the carrier will determine whether to pay for the repair cost or replacement value of the damaged goods after damage inspection. Replacement value is the amount the buyer paid to McNeil Racing Inc and is not negotiable.
WE ARE NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY MISSED DEADLINES BE SURE TO PLAN AHEAD FOR YOUR NEXT PROJECT.
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Address: 2340 Lawton Dr. Lemon Grove, CA 91945
Ford Raptor Spec Truck Body
- Unit price
This body fits a variety of chassis but designed around a Brenthel Gen 3 6100/TT chassis. This body features clean and sharp styling. It measures in at 91" wide and covers a 125" wheel base but can adjust bedsides for shorter or longer wheel base.
- One Piece Hood-$2000
- Doors-$750 Each
- Bedsides-$500 Each
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